This cool-climate vineyard seems to need warmth to ripen, and 2008 provided just enough to make the wine tantalizing. It’s dry, crisp and elegant, with a silky mouthfeel framing cherry, cola, bacon, cinnamon and white pepper flavors that are frankly irresistable. May not have much of a future, but it sure is good now.——S.H.(4/1/2012)—— 92