Made in a riper style, a flamboyant wine with tremendous fruit and also significant oak. Will appeal to aficionados of big Pinots, with its muscular cherry pie, black raspberry marmalade, cranberry sauce, mocha and smoky, toasty flavors. Fortunately, the wine is quite dry, and those wonderful Edna Valley acids sustain balance. Should hold if not improve for a few years before it loses freshness. ——S.H.(10/1/2006)—— 91