The heavy bottle, as so often, is the giveaway: This is meant as an important statement. The wine comes from a small parcel of vines owned by Cambon la Pelouse in Margaux. It has 100% new wood, but the richness of the fruit balances, giving a smooth, rich wine with black berry, bitter chocolate and mint flavors. ——R.V.(12/31/2010)—— 91