Their 2005 Cabernet Franc fulfills the promise of that hair-raising but ultimately outstanding Long Island red wine vintage. Aromas of blackberry, cassis, walnut, vanilla, and fennel set the mood for a rich dark-berried, subtly herbal, deeply nutty palate with finely-concentrated tannins and a finish of lovely freshness and verve. This will improve for at least another 3-4 years in your cellar, and in the meantime the other Paumanok 2005s including their “Grand Vintage” bottlings will be released. If (whether as a consumer or a winemaker) you’re looking for ripeness and intensity of flavor with refinement and elegance, here is an under-priced gem to relish (or study, as the case may be). Asked whether he would not consider paring down his eight-variety list, Charles Massoud replies that he can’t restrain his curiosity about the capabilities of his young region. And in fact, something as unorthodox as Long Island Chenin Blanc can be deliciously successful here (although the 2007 rendition slightly transcends the price ceiling for this report.) But Charles and Kareem Massoud’s forte is working with the red Bordeaux varieties, as the quality of their standard 2004 vintage bottlings (selling for $19-20 and reviewed from barrel in issue 165) demonstrates. Tel. (631) 722-8800