The big, tannic, backward 1988 Brunello di Montalcino exhibits a medium to dark ruby color, and a moderately intense bouquet of cedar, herbs, and jammy fruit. Full-bodied, powerful, tannic, and long, with excellent concentration and structure, this is a Brunello to lay away for 1-3 years and drink over the subsequent 15. Although Barbi fashioned some marvelous Brunellos throughout the sixties and early seventies, it has been a long time since I have tasted a Barbi Brunello as good as the three offerings reviewed in this issue.