This 2022 Magpie Hill Reserve Riesling is the first under new ownership, and it leads with a distinctly different nose than usual. It's challenging to pin down, but here goes: in place of the pristine white flowers and talc that is expected, there is swirling ash/embers, straw/hay, bison grass and graphite/bitumen and a pronounced petrichor/ozone character leads the charge. Behind it are pencil shavings, Dispirin (aspirin), the crackle of summer grass and oxalis. It's salty and mineral, gray and rocky, austere and sleek. Whether it's the season or not, this is a change in style for the Magpie Hill Reserve. Very different indeed.