LAN’s modern interpretation of Rioja is ripe, fragrant and beefy, with mineral, charcoal, pine and black cherry coating the unctuous nose. Runs a touch soft and plump on the palate, probably a reflection of the hot ’03 vintage. But along the way there’s black plum, licorice, molasses and maple flavors. A big, new-wave wine that has a lot going for it. ——M.S.(11/1/2006)—— 89