The fast-talking, super-enthusiastic Jim Clendenen is fashioning some of the most dazzling wines in California. The upcoming and current releases of Pinot Noir from Au Bon Climat are equally stunning in terms of their complexity and richness. The 1991 Pinot Noir-Sanford and Benedict Vineyard is the more classic wine in the sense that there is more structure, a Michel Lafarge-Volnay premier cru-like elegance and finesse, a beautifully pure black-raspberry, vanillin bouquet, and silky, wonderfully textured, rich, graceful flavors that flow across the palate with no hard or acidic edges. It reveals the high glycerin content and sweetness of fruit that come from low-yielding vines, as well as an exceptionally long finish. Drink this beauty over the next 7-8 years.
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