The Leroy 2005 Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes smells enchantingly of bergamot, lily-of-the-valley, maraschino, framboise liqueur and crystallized ginger. Yet for all of this sweetness in the nose, the wine comes to the palate refreshingly free of superficial sucrosity. Cherry pit bitterness and bright, ripe fruit acids, plus scintillating inner-mouth florality contribute to an impression of great precision and “cut” (the last word I would have used in describing any of the preceding Leroy 2005s) and the taster is carried away on a wafting wealth of finishing fruit, flowers, spice, marrow and chalk essence-of-Chambolle. (The texture is silken and refined to a remarkable but, in the Leroy context, by now routine degree.) Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400