The most complete and rich in the lineup, the 2011 Upslope Syrah is 100% Syrah, completely destemmed, that was aged 22 months in 30% new French oak. Rich, medium to full-bodied, layered and beautifully pure, it boasts notions of violets, cassis, black raspberry, toasted spice and assorted meat nuances in its cool-climate, fresh and focused personality. As with the other 2011s here, it has enough tannin and depth to allow it to evolve nicely for over a decade. Making their wine in the town of Santa Barbara, Craig Jaffurs and David Yates continue to make a bevy of outstanding wines, all of which remain reasonably priced. Both their 2011s and 2012s are made in a fresher, lighter-weight style that highlights purity and finesse over richness and power. Tel. (805) 962-7003; www.jaffurswine.com

The 2011 Syrah Upslope is a blend of the best barrels in the cellar. Firm tannins support a core of dark, explosive fruit in this intense, full-bodied Syrah. Black fruit, game, black pepper, violets and smoke hit the palate in a huge, structured Syrah. The 2011 could use another year or two in the cellar for the tannins to soften. Today, it is incredibly tannic and powerful to the core. Today, the Upslope shows considerable oak influence in its flavors and textures, signatures that are likely to remain, even as the wine ages. Drink 2014-2021