John Bigelow sources from exceptional vineyards scattered around eastern Washington; this has Klipsun, Lewis, Stillwater Creek and Boushey grapes in the blend. Carefully crafted, it pits its sharp, tangy berry fruit against flavors of cured meat, smoke, anise, whiskey barrel and earth––a glorious and complex medley of flavors. Still young and sharp, this will benefit from some further years of bottle age.——P.G.(9/1/2011)—— 92