The 2003 Batard-Montrachet (white) – which was about to be bottled – bursts from the glass with mouth-watering scents of juniper-smoked bacon coated with ripe pears and apples. Medium-bodied, silky-textured, and broad, this wine boasts a flavor profile composed of apricots, white peaches, pears, stones, and chunks of smoky bacon. Seamless, bursting with spices, its fruit-filled character lingers in its extended finish. Projected maturity: now-2013. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Full, rich, toasty aromas introduce this sumptuous white. It has breadth and volume, with oak shoring up the moderate structure. Very appealing now and over the short-term, if without the depth and intensity for long aging. Drink now through 2008. 520 cases made. -BS