This wine may deserve an outstanding rating, yet the lavish oak and international style are controversial. Nevertheless, it is a hedonistic, dark ruby/purple-colored, exotic, ostentatious 1997 with superb fruit and concentration. Enjoy it over the next decade. This tiny (700-750 cases), luxury cuvee is produced from a 6.2-acre parcel of 35-year old Merlot vines.

Lots of ripe fruit for the vintage, with plum, tobacco and toasted oak character. Medium-bodied, with soft tannins and a long finish. A tad too much wood, but a beautiful wine overall. Drink now through 2002. -JS