Chateau Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac, France

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I have always admired the 1966 Pichon Lalande and here, served blind next to its Latour counterpart, it continues to show well. The nose is deceptively Right Bank in style thanks to the relatively high Merlot content. A mixture of decayed red and black fruit intermix with black truffle, sage and thyme, fully mature but with no sign of oxidation. Not powerful, but content to just unfurl at its own pace. The palate has a sweet core of fruit, more youthful than I remember it, elegant in style and never intense. Its freshness is wonderful, hint of clove emerging towards that linear and straight-laced finish. Enjoy this 50-year-old Pichon Lalande now because it is not going to get any better, though neither will you regret waiting this long to open a bottle. Tasted September 2016.

Now ready to drink, this moderately dark ruby-colored wine has a rich, toasty, peppery, somewhat minty bouquet, and firm, fleshy, tannic flavors. Medium bodied, with good concentration, as well as the austerity that marks the vintage, the 1966 Pichon Lalande should be drunk over the next decade. Anticipated maturity: Now-2000. Last tasted, 3/88.