The 1996 Chardonnay Upper Barn (500 cases) was aged 14 months in 50% new French oak, and given considerable lees stirring. The wine possesses an evolved light gold color, a powerful pineapple, buttery, toasty, smoky nose, excellent full-bodied flavors, loads of fruit, a chewy texture, and a heady, alcoholic (14.2%) finish. It will not make anyone forget the extraordinary Upper Barn Chardonnays produced by Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer, but it is a top-flight effort that should drink well for 1-2 years. Tel. (707) 433-9463; Fax (707) 433-9469