The 2016 Nuits-Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes is showing beautifully, unwinding in the glass with aromas of sweet berry fruit, dark chocolate, rich soil tones and orange rind. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it's unusually concentrated in this frost-impacted vintage—to the extent that when Bertrand Chevillon presented it blind, I mistook it for one of his premiers crus. Its fine showing underscores what a good vintage this is chez Chevillon.