What a wonderful Pinot Noir, a joy to sip as it warms and changes in the glass. It’s a very young wine, dry, sappy and acidic, with a tremendous depth of cherry preserves, licorice, cocoa, oaky spice and something wild and mushroomy that comes from the earth. As good as it is now, it should improve for a decade. ——S.H.(12/15/2006)—— 95