Velvety in texture, with vibrant currant and plum fruit, nicely shaded with pepper, clove and cream notes, finishing with real length. Drink now through 2012. 518 cases made. -HS

Why does a winery, whose estate is located in the Horse Heaven Hills, one of the most prestigious AVAs in Washington, label their reserve “Washington State”? Nonetheless, this is a fine expression of Horse Heaven Hills terroir, with chewy tannins, lots of black cherry and cassis, a pleasing streak of earthy leaf and rock, and a substantial finish. The winery says it will age until 2030; it just might.——P.G.(12/1/2008)—— 90