The 2005 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese smells of lemon meringue, toasted hickory and walnut, and apple jelly. Intense lemony brightness, jellied fruit concentration, toasted nut cream, and honey all feature on a palate of striking creaminess and syrup-like viscosity. The citrus and toasted nut characteristics in the finish restrain the sweetness, and the overall brightness here is almost unbearable. One can only go so far in assessing anything this embryonic and hidden on account of its sheer concentration, but that is far enough to safely declare it great wine. Also recommended: 2005 Muhlheimer Sonnenlay Riesling “Zeppelin” ($16.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Classic ($18.00; 86), 2005 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett feinherb ($26.00; 85+?), 2005 Riesling ($18.00; 85), 2005 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett ($25.00; 86+?).Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800