Guilhem & Jean-Hugues Goisot Saint-Bris Exogyra Virgula, Burgundy, France

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From classic fossil-rich Kimmeridgian soil – as its name suggests – the 2007 Saint-Bris Exogyra Virgula smells of lime, celery seed, and passion fruit; comes to the palate subtly oily in texture, but refreshingly and invigoratingly citric and saline; and finishes with a bright, pungent persistence of caraway, as well as lime and grapefruit with their zests. I would plan to employ this relatively austere Sauvignon over the next couple of years. Guilhem Goisot (whose name has now replaced that of his mother in this estate’s official title) echoed the sentiments of many regional growers that the grapes – while already adequately high in sugar at the end of August – were simply not ripe. But time was on an Auxerrre vintner’s side in 2007, and the Goisots were able to pick selectively, parcel by parcel, for three weeks, as compared with nine days in 2006. Their single-vineyard bottlings came close to 13.5% in natural alcohol, those few lots that approached 14% having been consigned to blends. Sauvignon, with its characteristically southwestern exposures (hail-free this year), was picked last – albeit already mid-September – and adequately ripe.Thomas Calder Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29