Named for the classic oyster fossil-rich Kimmeridgian soil on which it is grown the 2006 Saint-Bris Exogyra Virgula smells of sage, lemon, and caraway. With a slightly awkwardly milky expression of its malo-lactic transformation on the palate, this nevertheless offers a satisfying sense of stuffing, herbal piquancy, and stony, chalky mineral suggestions in a long finish. It should prove more than merely serviceable with a variety of dishes, but not the same ones as will complement the Moury bottling. Drink all three 2006 Goisot Saint-Bris bottlings within the next three years. In the past year, the 1996 has performed impressively (and very vintage-typically; I last rated it 91), but I don’t pick 2006 to be such a keeper. The Goisots farmed organically before that implied any fashion statement, and have long been the foremost vintners of appellation Saint-Bris (Sauvignon Blanc). Their Chardonnays of Cotes d’Auxerre appellation have been enhanced in recent vintages by the addition of barrel-fermented bottlings from individual sites that offer a level of complexity comparable to top-notch premier cru Chablis.Importer:Thomas Calder Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29