Hints of lanolin and resin from barrel rise from the glass of Bouchard’s 2008 Chablis Blanchots, which evinces radish-like sharpness and muskiness on the palate that don’t harmonize with the wood. This is rather closed-in overall and might benefit from some time in bottle (even short term), but while there is undeniable textural richness to which the incisive aspects lend counterpoint, I would want to re-visit this in a year before being willing to wholeheartedly endorse it, let alone predict its bottle evolution. Pascal Bouchard’s large, north-western Chablis-oriented estate – which I visited this April for the first time in many years – supplements its production with contract fruit. Among Bouchard’s premier crus, only their Beauroy (from purchased grapes) is machine-harvested, and around one-third of their generic Chablis sites are hand-harvested. I have argued and continue to insist that the evidence by no means rules out impressive results via machines, but their relative insignificance at this address is certainly an indication of Bouchard’s seriousness about and willingness to sacrifice in what they believe is the interest of quality.Importers include William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463
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