Winemaker Doug Meador says this is not a “California Fats” Chardonnay, by which he means he went light on the oak and allowed the fruit to speak for itself. It’s pretty fruit, with the smell and taste of apples. However, that slight touch of oak adds just the right amount of vanilla and cream to the mix. —S.H.——S.H.(9/1/2002)—— 86