The light green/gold-colored 2008 Chardonnay Zio Tony Ranch reveals more butterscotch, honeyed mandarin orange, citrus oil, brioche, leesy, waxy notes along with full-bodied richness and a California style that mimics a premier cru Meursault with its hazelnut and subtle smokiness. Drink this stunning Chardonnay over the next 7-8 years. The venerable Martinelli winery, one of the iconic families and longtime growers in Sonoma, has turned out another impressive group of wines. Tel. (707) 525-0570; Fax (707) 525-9463