There is not much produced, but an interesting, well-made offering is Alban’s 2000 Costello, a botrytised sweet Viognier. Only 60 cases were produced.Tel. (805) 546-0305

Glugs out of the bottle as thick as mineral oil, a hint to the viscous texture. Don’t chill this too much, because it will stun the intensely rich botrytis and apricot preserves aromas, with their edge of wild honey and cinnamon. The ultimate impression is in the mouth, where the apricot and pear tart flavors drink like a nectary syrup, but are relieved with vibrant acids. Not super-sweet, and fairly low in alcohol, this is a beautiful, delicious dessert wine.——S.H.(6/1/2003)—— 95