This is taut and dense, and requires time and air to untangle. Deep, dark fruits are mixed in with layers of black olive, smoke, compost, tar, moist earth and herb—a delicious melange of flavors that promises good things to come as the wine ages. It’s masterful winemaking in a package so young and wrapped up tight that it may pass you by if you don’t give it a good look.——P.G.(8/1/2008)—— 92