The “two star” 2006 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese is loaded with caramelized nectarine, vanilla cream, and mocha, with the same saline cast as its single-starred sibling, but now with the uncanny sense of lift and elegance that accrued to the “no-star” member of the family. Practically luminous in finish, this is irresistible today, and will be worth following for 20-25 years. Martin Kerpen and his vines had a hard act to follow after their successes in 2005 but were more than up to the task, confirming the hypothesis that these always excellent wines have crossed a new quality threshold. Still, the last place I would have imagined 2006s keeping pace was in the range of trocken. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300