There is a lot of good stuff in the 2010, but the real stunner is the 2009 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine des Grands Chemins. Revealing abundant notes of tar, cassis, black raspberries, tapenade and earth in its rich, full-bodied, stunning personality, it should drink well for 10-15 years. Another great negociant with significant vineyard holdings, and at the top of their game, is undeniably Delas, owned by the Louis Roederer/Deutz Champagne firm. Since they acquired Delas well over a decade ago, this firm has been under the management of Burgundian Jacques Grange, who has done an outstanding job producing a sensational array of wines. The 2009s appear to be their finest overall performances to date, and the 2010s are noteworthy successors in a more restrained, mineral dominated, crisper style. Jacques Grange did a fabulous job with his Cote Roties in both 2009 and 2010, the latter being a somewhat more challenging vintage in this appellation. The Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes (until the 2009 vintage, this offering was known as the Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette) is sensational in both 2010 and 2009. Three thousand cases of this cuvee are produced, and the wine is aged in French oak, 50% new. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

This fresh, pure red delivers mouthwatering cut, which keeps the plum, red currant and violet notes nicely defined. A whiff of mesquite chimes in on the finish. Drink now through 2015. 100 cases imported. –JM