The 2009 Tinta Roriz is concentrated and a touch meaty, with a tiny burst of alcohol, particularly early on (listed at 14.5%, which one would think could be handled). Powerful on the finish, it is oak-tinged in its youth, needing some “pull me together” time. This is tasty and should evolve. Give it a year or two to settle down, though. Drink 2013-2019. Crasto is one of the Douro’s most prominent estates, typically one of its leaders. With a beautiful Quinta and view – easier to get to by boat, more interesting to get to by car – it justly attracts a lot of attention. The releases this year, 2009s, have plenty to offer, but I was not entirely convinced by all of the upper level wines. Perhaps time will tell another story as they calm down and settle down.Importer: Broadbent Selections, San Francisco, Ca.; (415) 931-1725.

A pair to Crasto’s Touriga Nacional, this is as smooth as only Tinta Roriz (aka Tempranillo) can be. It slides across the mouth with its ripe spicy black plum fruits. It is perfumed, toasty from new wood, able to age for 3–4 years and more.——R.V.(2/1/2012)—— 92