Without question, Martin Kerpen’s 2005 collection is his best ever, and you know you are off to a flying start when a dry Mosel wine is as expressive and well-balanced as is his 2005 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese trocken. A site-typical apple and vanilla aroma prepares the way for an apple and peach-filled palate of subtly oily texture, with distinct underlying toasted nut and wet stone slate character, lovely, musky, sweet inner-mouth florality, and persistently juicy fresh fruit. A clear, polished finish strong on both fruits and slate does not in the least betray the wine’s 13% alcohol. This should prove lovely over the next three to five years at least, although I am not convinced that such a dry wine from this site will be a long keeper. Certainly, though, here is a model for how deliciously well-balanced dry Mosel Riesling can be. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300