One of my favorites among the drier, lighter-styled Sherries is the non-vintage Palo Cortado Peninsula. Medium amber-colored, with great balance, intensity, and acidity as well as a scorched earth/roasted nut character, it is a stunning, flavorful yet light, crisp Sherry. Importer: A Christopher Cannan Selection, various American importers including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and Diamond Wine Merchants, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897

Dark amber in color, with maple, walnut and other sweet-meets-nutty aromas. It’s a bit tangy, but being as zesty as it is propels maple, white chocolate and apricot flavors. This one has depth and a very long finish, which makes it a regal but still approachable palo cortado. Overall it’s similar to an amontillado, but with more pulsing, piercing acidity. ——M.S.(2/1/2009)—— 90