Chanson’s 2005 Beaune Bressandes smells darkly of black raspberry, iodine and roasted meats. Subtly glossy in mouth feel though possessed of abundant, fine-grained tannins, it finishes with a piquant, invigoratingly juicy, though rather bitterly concentrated finish featuring tart black fruit skin, singed red meat, iodine and wet stone. This should nicely reward at least 5-7 years in someone’s cellar. Also recommended: 2005 Beaune Teurons (85). Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900