The Latour-Giraud 2007 Puligny-Montrachet Champ Canet smells of narcissus, lily, lime zest, and ripe peach. Lusciously ripe yet shot through with veins of chalk and salt, and with toasted grain undertones this is very Meursault Perrieres-like (as befits its location), and is every bit as formidably dense and long as this year’s Latour-Giraud rendition of that cru, though more of a powerhouse and even more saliva-inducing. Jean-Pierre Latour is having none of the claim that 2007 and 2004 are similar. “2004 is about minerality, whereas 2007 is a lively vintage of fruit,” he insists, “but that didn’t become apparent until well along in the elevage. Because it was so cold over the winter,” he continues, “the wines precipitated a lot of tartaric acid, after which the malos came normally” (unlike in 2006 here) in early Spring. Latour reports healthy lees which he was happy to retain and stir to lend the wines textural richness. As a group, I found these more charming, refined, fun to drink, as well as nuanced than the 2006 collection, but white Burgundy lovers who in general preferred 2006 as a vintage should by all means check out Latour’s unusually broad, rich, and texturally pliable 2007s. Various importers, including Bayfield Importing, Long Island, NY (718)482 0200; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA, tel. (781) 352 1100; and Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998 0029