Brundlmayer’s 2004 Gruner Veltliner Berg Vogelsang is ostensibly part of his “l(fā)ower range” of Gruner Veltliners, but you won’t believe it any more than I did when you get this wine under your nose and onto your palate. Melon, lilac and sweet pea scents suggest sweetness, but in the mouth this is clear and transparent in its fruit and totally dry. Cool and restrained in finish, yet long and satisfying, with an underlying element of crushed stone that in no way detracts from its juiciness, this had me coming back for several next sips. Brundlmayer seems to have thought of everything when it comes to the satisfaction on offer here, even bottling some of the wine in 375 ml. format for more frequent enjoyment. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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