The 2010 Contador was cropped later than the 2009, on October 7, 8 and 14. It is 99% Tempranillo with 1% Garnacha raised in new French oak for 19 months. Comparing it directly against the 2009, it has slightly more delineation and lift on the nose, which is taut and demonstrates great focus. After two hours, the nose has blossomed in similar fashion to the 2009, with an undertow of blood orange and crushed violets. The lower pH level and equivalent alcohol level shows through on the palate, which is beautifully balanced, with layers of ripe blackberry, creme de cassis and blueberry jam. The texture is satin-like with a generous finish. This will be a potent, sophisticated Contador destined to seduce wine-lovers in approximately 15 to 20 years. Drink 2018-2035. One of the most memorable days in Rioja was spending an afternoon in the company of the inimitable Benjamin Romeo, the tour de force behind Bodega Contador. We flitted from one patch of twisted ancient vines to another, mainly around the medieval village of San Vincente, Romeo again and again propounding his mantra that terroir creates great wine. This involved one perilous drive through vegetation as thick as the Amazon until the 4x4 exited into a parcel of century-old, gnarly Tempranillo vines (upon which he mentioned that they were far more accessible on foot). Since leaving Artadi in 2000, he has gradually acquired around 80 parcels of old vine material, vinifying the fruit in a simple, modern, efficient winery, inaugurated in 2007, a facility that places functionality over aesthetic charms. Benjamin himself comes across as an intense, passionate, uncompromising winemaker, a little distant and apprehensive at first, but warming to someone who is patently interested in terroir. Bodega Contador is certainly a slick operation, fastidious down to the last detail, resulting in a set of sumptuous, silky smooth, curvaceous Rioja wines that are seductive, yet deserve considerable cellaring. Moving on to the 2010s, readers should note that these were bottled a week prior to my tasting them. Although Romeo’s name is synonymous with “modern” Rioja, he told me that he wished to make a classical wine for his mother, whom he described as a “classical woman” and fancied a “change of scene.”Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565
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