The 2003 Hermitage Ex-Voto blanc is the quintessential white Hermitage, a blend of 95% Marsanne and 5% Roussanne with extraordinary honeyed licorice, quince, marmalade, and truffle notes, an unctuous texture, great purity and richness, and a profound mouthfeel and length. This is extraordinary wine and certainly one of the most profound dry whites I ever tasted. It seems to be set for an amazingly long life.Importer: Fred Ek and Patrick Will, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153

After 30 months in new oak, this needs some time to pull itself together. Right now, it’s dominated by oaky notes of vanilla and spice. There does appear to be plenty of old-vine material underneath—you can ferret out hints of apricot and almond skin—so this rating may look stingy in 10 or more years.——J.C.(9/1/2007)—— 90