The 1997 Cornas les Ruchets is hanging in there, 20 years after the vintage. It's medium to full-bodied but is starting to thin out a little. It still offers notes of roasted beef, spice and leather, and the finish remains silky and long.

The 1997 Cornas Les Ruchets is tannic, but surprisingly open-knit for a young wine of this appellation. It exhibits a healthy dark ruby/purple color, as well as a bouquet of roasted herbs, sweet oak, and black fruits, excellent ripeness, medium to full body, good plumpness, and sweet tannin in the fine finish. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2012. Importer: Premiere Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (212) 399-4200

Maybe the best vintage for current consumption, the ’91 Les Ruchets features floral scents accompanied by hints of cherries and pomegranates, even some stone fruit flavors. Lush, supple and long. Drink now.——J.C.(4/1/2007)—— 91