Hillaire's 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Petits Pieds d'Armand comes from a patch of Grenache planted at the end of the 19th century in a sandy portion of la Crau. Aged in 400-liter barrels, it shows virtually no wood flavors, instead delivering floral notes of roses, black tea and ripe cherries. Full-bodied and supple, it picks up hints of cinnamon and clove on the long, silky-textured finish. It's a terrific effort that can be drunk with pleasure now and anytime over the next 15 years.