Weingut Leo Alzinger Muhlpoint Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

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The 2006 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Muhlpoint suggests brown-spiced honeydew melon and sweet pea in its combination of ripe intensity and laid-back, satisfyingly juicy abundance of fruit. It finishes broadly satisfying, and enveloping, though with less focus and cut than the corresponding Federspiel. The most exciting collection I have thus far tasted at this address – like a number of those in the Wachau – departs from the script that was written very early, touting 2006 as a “Gruner Veltliner vintage.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300