Familie Saahs Nikolaihof Riesling vom Stein Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

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And now, the proper successor to last year's extraordinary Riesling Federspiel: the late-released (as usual, but also late-bottled) 2006 Riesling Smaragd Vom Stein. This displays a fascinatingly diverse if hard to pin down floral bouquet (orange blossom, lily-of-the-valley, I know not what else), along with pink grapefruit and tangerine rind. On the palate, there is a depth of mineral and carnal elements one can otherwise expect only in great Chablis: like a mingling of rich chicken and vegetable stock with fresh scallop and oceanic salinity. In drinking this (spitting alone was insufficient), it seems as though one is restoring one's bodily fluids. Heaven knows, no wine could seem more -natural,- or more of a tonic. Both the wafting floral perfume and mysterious savor follow in a long, salivatory finish. This will surely work its magic from bottle for more than a decade. Nikolaus Saahs followed up his amazing 2006 collection with more than suitable successors (although the top Rieslings of 2007 - following usual Nikolaihof practice - will only be unveiled this year or next, and could not yet be reviewed). As is frequently the case at this passionately biodynamic address, the Saahs family is happy to point out that they finished harvesting fully ripe fruit - early October - before some area growers had probably even begun.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300