The 2010 Dolcetto d’Alba dei Grassi is fabulous. Grasso’s approach in the vineyard gives the Dolcetto just that extra little bit of dimension and complexity to the fruit, without abandoning a true, varietal expression. The wine shows excellent minerality and focus in a tense, wiry style that is typical of the year. I loved it. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. Elio Grasso remains the most under-appreciated of Piedmont’s top growers. Make no mistake about it, these wines can easily hold their own with the best from the region. When one factors in price, these are easily some of the finest ageworthy wines on the planet. Importer: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Langdon Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; tel. (213) 483-5900; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA; Admirality Beverage Co. Columbia Distributing Company, Portland, Oregon; tel. (503) 289-9600; Oliver McCrum Wines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 654-9159