The 1999 Merlot Seven Hills is medium to dark ruby-colored and offers cherry, blackberry, and vanilla aromas intermingled with hints of candied orange rind. Tangy red and black currants as well as juicy blackberries are found in this medium to full-bodied wine. It is powerful, concentrated, and has a firm tannic backbone. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2012. Tel. (206) 463-3290.

Here is a surprisingly light effort, with soft plum-flavored fruit, and gentle accents of lively, peppery spice. There’s a hint of asparagus flavor here too, and the finish drops off very quickly. This is an excellent vineyard, and one wonders if the wine is just at a rather unfortunate, awkward phase of its development.——P.G.(6/1/2001)—— 87