From contract grapes, the Laroche 2006 Petit Chablis mingles melon, gooseberry, grapefruit, and chalk dust in a manner that suggests Loire Sauvignon Blanc. Polished, juicy, and generous on the palate, it is hard not to imagine this making a versatile “refrigerator white,” and I suspect it will hold up nicely for a couple of years. Representing 15,000 liters of largely purchased juice – which is ten times the volume of Laroche’s Petit Chablis – their 2006 Chablis was marginally less succulent and satisfying. Winemaker Denis de la Bourdonnaye and proprietor Michel Laroche – who export 85% of their wines, and were Burgundy’s pioneers (along with Verget) in utilizing screw cap closures – are dedicated to the proposition that Chablis can be seductive and sensual while remaining true to its terroir, and they have proven this in bottle with their outstanding 2005 and 2006 collections. Importer: Remy-Cointreau USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 424-2244