The 2009 Nuits St. Georges Rue de Chaux is a dark, powerful wine loaded with generous yet cool, inward fruit. It reveals superb length and an exciting, viscerally thrilling personality. The radiance of the fruit shines on the expressive finish. This is a beautifully complete, harmonious wine from Chezeaux. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2034. Jerome Chezeaux farms a total of 11.2 hectares of vineyards, of which 6.6 are estate owned. The fruit is 100% destemmed. Chezeaux favors fairly lengthy macerations. New oak levels are on the low side. As is the case at many estates, the 2009s have a slight upper hand in many of the entry and mid-level wines, while at the high end the 2008s are superb. Either way, these are some of the most beautiful, classically built wines I tasted on my trip. Patience is required, though, as these are sturdy wines that need bottle age.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

Very savoury nose of anchovy, tar, crunchy red fruit, cherry, berry, blackcurrant and kirsch liqueur. Full, tannic, individual and expressive. Structurally very classic with an unusual set of flavours that work very well together. Attractive. Drink: 2013. Alc: 13.5%.