The 2006 Pinot Noir Resonance Reserve is a selection of the four best barrels. It reveals a similar personality but with more grip and depth and splendid integration of the oak, tannin, and acidity leading to a seamless, pure close. Peter Rosback makes one other Pinot Noir but you’ll have to be one of the fortunate few to get a reservation at Napa Valley’s The French Laundry restaurant where it is sold exclusively to diners. Sineann’s major domo is Peter Rosback whose first vintage was 1995. The winery currently produces 13,000 cases from a variety of AVAs.Tel. (503) 341-2698; www.sineann.com

This is Sineann’s first reserve, a limited release from some old vine blocks from one of Oregon’s greatest Pinot vineyards, now fully biodynamic. As good as the “regular” Resonance is, this ramps it up another notch or two. The fruit ranges from cherry to prune; the acids are perfect, the barrel notes so well-concealed that you cannot separate them out. Streaks of cherry, fig, coffee, smoke, chocolate, bourbon, caramel—where do you stop? It just goes and goes. Phenomenal winemaking.——P.G.(2/1/2008)—— 96