The 2008 Pinot Noir Rochioli River Block emerges from an iconic vineyard in the Russian River. Dark ruby, with notes of gun flint, raspberry, black cherry and spice, the wine has good acidity, slightly more sweet and sour cherry fruit than several of the other wines, and medium body. It is an interesting contrast to the style produced by the owners of this vineyard, Tom Rochioli and his father. This is very good Pinot Noir that plays it close to the vest but shows overall good balance. With thirteen separate Pinot Noirs, Williams-Selyem has something for just about everybody. Eight of these Pinot Noirs hail from relatively well-known sites in the Russian River and three come from the Sonoma Coast, while the two outliers are the Weir Vineyard from Yorkville Highlands and the Ferrington Vineyard from the Anderson Valley. Three well-regarded vineyards of the Sonoma Coast comprise part of this impressive Pinot Noir portfolio from Williams-Selyem. With eight Russian River bottlings, the two with the largest availability are the Eastside Road Neighbors and Westside Road Neighbors, which are blends from different fruit sources. The most underrated wines in the entire portfolio are the Zinfandels that come from winemaker Bob Cabrol.Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

Among the heavier, softer and more extracted of the winery’s fall offerings. It shows the ripeness and full-bodied richness of the block, with powerful cherry, pomegranate, cola and spice flavors, and is very dry and classically proportioned. But it’s not the greatest Riverblock ever. Drink now–2015.——S.H.(2/1/2011)—— 89