From one of the Russian River’s iconic vineyard sites, the 2007 Pinot Noir Rochioli River Block reveals a flinty, gravelly, stony nose with red currant, pomegranate, and cherry fruit. Medium to full-bodied with excellent acidity (better integrated here than in some of these cuvees), a feminine, Chambolle-Musigny-like minerality, and a touch of spring flowers, this pretty wine is not a blockbuster, but it should blossom in 2-3 years, and last for a decade or more. The single vineyard Pinot Noirs are made from a wide range of California vineyards, primarily in the north, with Russian River and Sonoma Coast dominating, but there is also an Anderson Valley site (Ferrington), San Benito site (Vista Verde), and Yorkville Highlands (Weir). The Chardonnays are nearly as powerful as the Zinfandels in terms of alcohol strength, ranging from 14.5% to 14.8%. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

Always one of Williams Selyem’s top Pinot Noirs, the 2007 is a spectacular wine. The vines are the closest to the river in the famed Rochioli vineyard, and the resulting wine always has an elegant structure and fruity accessibility that make it drinkable at a younger age. Showing rich flavors of cherries, red currants, cola, bacon, anise, Asian spices and smoky oak, it will develop beautifully over the next decade.——S.H.(2/1/2010)—— 97