Resembling a California-styled Corton-Charlemagne, the light golden-hued, full-bodied 2004 Chardonnay Melville Vineyard offers aromas of white peaches, crushed rocks, honeyed citrus, and subtle wood as well as brilliant underlying acidity. It possesses superb extract, richness, punch, and definition. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Tel. (805) 735-9184

It’s odd that while the alcohol here is lower than on the winery’s Rancho Santa Rosa bottling, the wine tastes hotter, with a pepper spice note that actually complements the ripe, exotic tropical fruit, pear and buttercream flavors. This is a very big, complex wine, long-lasting in the finish and impressive for the way its mass is balanced and contained. ——S.H.(8/1/2006)—— 93