The cool climate-styled 2004 Pinot Noir La Colline Vineyard exhibits a touch of minerals, medium to full body, crisp underlying acidity, and austere tannin in the elegant finish. It may be slightly over-built and structured, but perhaps more balance will emerge with cellaring. Tasted by itself, it would probably score higher, but in the company of its siblings, it did not seem quite up to snuff. Tel. (805) 938-5050

The vineyard, owned by Laetitia and one of their block bottlings, has yielded in this warm vintage a soft, concentrated Pinot. Focused in cherry pie and new oaky smoke and vanilla flavors, it has an elegantly silky texture. What a wonderful, upscale Pinot this is, a natural with great food.——S.H.(12/31/2006)—— 92