Weingut Toni Jost Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Beerenauslese, Mittelrhein, Germany

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The 2007 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Beerenauslese (in keeping with Jost’s approach to its nobly sweet siblings, having relatively high 9.5% alcohol) features marzipan, yellow plum preserves, pineapple, white raisin, and a hoisin and salt water-taffy like amalgam of briny minerality and caramelization. The feel is surprisingly firm; the sense of underlying density formidable; yet there is buoyancy here, too. A slightly spirit-like volatility accompanies the wine’s concentration and penetration of pit fruits and citrus oils through a finish that incorporates an invigorating sense of fruit skin chew and zest. This subtly complex elixir is another safe candidate for three decades’ aging. The 2007 vintage was immensely satisfying for the Josts, combining as it did high must weights (but less so than in most recent vintages); ripe acid-retention; ample precipitation (for a flagship site so notoriously dry that it is among the very few in Germany to have been approved decades ago for drip lines); perfect botrytis; and a bumper crop (after several straight years of penury). All of that noted, I was still marginally disappointed by this year’s dry wines. I cannot help but wonder whether the Hahn simply promotes too much sugar in its Riesling grapes for ideal balance at legal Trockenheit. Peter Jost continues to follow a distinctive approach to nobly sweet success – honed only over the past several years – of rigorously removing and discarding in September any botrytis that might not later at harvest be distinguishable from fresh botrytis, and of favoring lower residual sugar and correspondingly higher alcohol in the finished wines than is nowadays fashionable.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300